Sarajevo went on my travel list after reading The Cellist of Sarajevo in 2010. The book had a significant impact on me because I wasn’t fully aware of the Siege of Sarajevo in the 1990s. I was shocked to realise what the city’s residents had to endure. It’s 30 years since the siege ended and the city is still rebuilding but it’s one of the most interesting places I’ve been to. Here’s what makes a trip to Sarajevo so special.
Its fascinating history brought to life by the Roses of Sarajevo tour
Having read about the Siege of Sarajevo my friend and I were keen to learn more and it was brought to life perfectly by our guide Mak on the excellent Roses of Sarajevo tour. I can’t recommend it highly enough. We were the only two people on the tour, so Mak was our private guide. He explained the history of the conflict and the political landscape that emerged afterwards. And he shared his personal experience of the war and its impact on his family. The tour also enabled us to see a lot in a short space of time as Sarajevo’s sights are quite spread out. Plus some of the roads up to the hills surrounding the city are steep and winding so we were happy not to drive them!
Sarajevo Roses mark spots where mortar shells fell and at least three people were killed. The resulting cavities formed floral patterns so they have been painted to serve as memorials. There’s one outside the house that was at one end of the Tunnel of Hope. The tunnel was a lifeline during the siege with food, medical supplies and weapons brought through it to enable residents to survive and defend their city. It’s now a museum where you can see and learn more about the conflict. You can also walk through part of the tunnel but the conditions are very different now to how they were during the siege.
We also visited great viewpoints on the tour including the White Bastion fortress where you can get a clear picture of a city that sits right in the middle of a valley. That is what made the siege possible as Serbian snipers hid in the hills and shot at Sarajevo’s residents below. Sniper Alley was a road crossing regularly targeted because people had to cross it daily to get food and water.
You can still see and feel Sarajevo’s Winter Olympics legacy
The Winter Olympics took place in 1984 before war ravaged the city. But Sarajevo is still proud to have been the host and there was a surprising amount of memorabilia for sale in the souvenir shops. And you can see its legacy at the Olympic bobsleigh track which is now covered in street art/ graffiti. Mak took us there as part of the tour and it was a unique experience to walk along the former Olympic track.
It has an atmospheric old town
Apart from learning about the siege, there is plenty to see and do in Sarajevo. Its old town Bascarsija has a strong Ottoman influence so is very atmospheric. At its heart is a square with the Sebilj fountain and leading off it is Saraci, a paved walkway lined with shops and cafes. Perfect for strolling or stopping for some Turkish coffee and sweets.
You can also pop into Morica Han, a former caravanserai (castle of the caravans), an inn that provided accommodation, stables and storage for traders visiting the city. It’s been restored and now includes a restaurant, cafe, shop and office space. After a while, Saraci turns into Ferhadija which dates from the Austro-Hungarian period and stretches down to the Eternal Flame monument. This burns in memory of people who gave their lives to liberating Sarajevo from fascists in World War II.
East meets West in religious harmony
There aren’t many cities where you’ll find a mosque, Orthodox and Catholic churches and a synagogue all in spitting distance of each other. But that is the case in Sarajevo which symbolises the crossroads of East and West. The Byzantine and Ottoman empires brought their culture and religions from the East while the empires of Rome and Vienna brought theirs from the West. The result is a diverse indigenous culture where multi-ethnicity thrives. You’ll come to the Gazi Huzrev-beg Mosque while walking along Sarici. It’s the most important Islamic building in Bosnia and Herzegovina and there’s a madrasa (educational institute) of the same name opposite. Then after the street turns into Ferhadija you can’t miss the Sacred Heart Cathedral with its statue of Pope John Paul II outside. The Orthodox church is nearby while the main Sarajevo synagogue is just across the river.
The river and bridges are perfect for a riverside stroll
The Miljacka River runs through the centre of Sarajevo and has multiple bridges, many of which are mentioned in the Cellist of Sarajevo as its characters frequently need to try and cross them. Some bridges were heavily bombed in the war but have been rebuilt including the infamous Latin Bridge. This is where Franz Ferdinand and his pregnant wife Sofia were assassinated in 1914, an act that historians believe sparked the start of World War I. One side of the river is a busy thoroughfare with cars and trams but cross a bridge and there’s a lovely walkway that’s a nice place for a stroll. If you continue down to the Academy of Fine Arts with its green domed roof you’ll see a very cool, contemporary bridge leading across to it.
Sarajevo has some excellent restaurants
We were surprised to realize there are some fabulous places to eat in Sarajevo and they were about half the price of Croatia. My friend and I both celebrated our birthdays in the city and we were not disappointed on either occasion. On Miriam’s birthday, we ate at Restoran Libertas and had a delicious swordfish carpaccio and pasta. Two days later my birthday was a bit rainy so after a morning of sightseeing, we headed for S One Sky Lounge at the top of the Marriot Hotel. They did an excellent risotto set lunch and the cocktails and the view were both fabulous.
That evening we got a taxi to a restaurant that was a little far to walk to but it was well worth the trip. The Four Rooms of Mrs Safija was quite unlike anywhere we’ve been. As quirky as anything but with food that was beautifully presented and tasted amazing.
On a more practical note, I’d also recommend Hotel Sana. It’s very central, has nice rooms and breakfast and the staff were really helpful. And just a few minutes’ walk away is the excellent Tito’s Iron Fist laundry. It describes itself as a socialist laundry and there’s plenty of memorabilia and literature if you’re in the market for that. But if you just need some clothes laundered the owner offers a great service.
You can probably tell that Sarajevo was a real highlight for us and I’d recommend including it in any Balkans itinerary. It really is a very special place.
To read more about my trip around Croatia and Bosnia visit the Europe section of my blog.