Dubrovnik is undoubtedly one of the best-preserved walled towns in Europe. Reshaped after an earthquake in 1667, it seems not to have changed since and is so beautiful I’m not sure why it took me so long to get there. Here’s my guide to making the most of a visit to Croatia’s captivating coastal city.
Where to stay in Dubrovnik
There are plenty of accommodation options in Dubrovnik so you can choose depending on your location preference and budget. Some visitors opt for a beach hotel in the Lapad area, which will be an hour-plus walk to the walled town or around 10 minutes by taxi. In and around the old town itself, there are some hotels, but they are pricey, so an apartment might be preferable. I’d recommend the Airbnb apartment my friends and I rented, as we had the most stunning view of Dubrovnik’s old town and the Adriatic Sea. Breakfast on the terrace and sunset drinks were fab. It’s quite high above the old town so there are a lot of steps down, but we were at the Pile Gate in less than 15 minutes. And we always ordered Ubers to go back up, as they were much cheaper than taxis from the rank.
How to avoid the crowds in Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik has increased in popularity since being used as a location for Game of Thrones and other movie and TV filming. And we heard it can also get overrun with cruise ship tourists. But we found it fairly easy to get away from the crowds once we ventured off the main streets. On the busiest day, we headed to Buza Bar on the rocks which isn’t suitable for large tour groups. It’s a brilliant spot for a relaxed drink sitting on a beer crate and watching braver people than us jump off the rocks into the sea!
We also found that the day visitors returned to the ships by mid-afternoon. So we walked around the Dubrovnik City Walls at that time of day and it was pretty quiet. The walls are 25m high and stretch for around 2km. So walking around them is the perfect way to get a feel for the city and enjoy the most incredible views: terracotta tiled rooftops, narrow alleyways, domes and of course the sea. It takes around an hour, depending on how often you stop to admire the views and take photos. Occasionally, the walls get narrow, but they are mainly comfortable to walk along. Sights to look out for include the bastions and fortresses that controlled access to the port area and a very unusual basketball court. The available space meant it was created with the baskets at right angles to each other!
How to save money on sightseeing in Dubrovnik
Before my trip, I’d heard people complain about the cost of visiting Dubrovnik’s City Walls. But they are so well preserved, the money is obviously being used well, so we were happy to pay the entrance fee. However, I’d recommend buying the Dubrovnik Pass, which gets you access to the walls and a range of other attractions. A one-day pass actually lasts for 24 hours. So, as we knew rain was forecast on our final day, we activated the pass the previous afternoon to walk the walls and then used it to visit indoor attractions the following morning.
Sights to look out for in Dubrovnik’s Stradun
The Pile Gate is the western entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town and where most visitors enter the walled city. A stone bridge leads to the simple archway and then steps lead down to the Stradun, Dubrovnik’s main street. Onofrio’s Large Fountain is the first thing you’ll see as it dominates this end of the Stradun. It’s quite striking and features a bulbous dome with heads spouting water below it. In medieval times, visitors to Dubrovnik had to wash here before being admitted. Nowadays, the visitors just fill up their water bottles!
Also at this end of the Stradun and down a narrow passageway is the 14th-century Franciscan monastery. Its cloister has rows of double arches with human heads and animals at the tops, while the museum has items from the apothecary shop that’s at the entrance to the cloister. It dates back to 1317 and is still operating, so claims to be the oldest pharmacy in Europe. Back on the Stradun, the monastery’s wall has a small stone decorated with a gargoyle jutting out. It’s seen as a test of endurance to stand on the stone and remove your shirt while facing the wall and before falling off the stone, which is very tricky to balance on. It’s quite entertaining to watch visitors attempt it!
The Stradun runs right across the Old Town to the port. After the 1667 earthquake, it was reconstructed in a very uniform way, so all the houses have identical doors, window frames and green shutters. It’s now home to lots of tourist shops, cafes and restaurants, but as conspicuous signage is forbidden by law, the premises’ names are inscribed on lanterns over the doorways.
Luza Square at the port end of the Stradun houses a 15th-century bell tower. If you look closely, you can see the bell is flanked by two Jacquemart figures holding hammers, which have become a symbol of Dubrovnik. Also in the square is St Blaise’s Church (it’s not the city’s cathedral, though often mistaken for it). It has a lovely facade in front of which is Orlando’s Column, a carved figure of a knight in armour. Nearby is Onofrio’s Little Fountain which as the name suggests, is a smaller version of the sculptor’s grander affair at the other end of the Stradun.
Other sights worth visiting in Dubrovnik
The Rector’s Palace is the former seat of the Ragusan government. The rector was Dubrovnik’s head of state but was only elected for a month. It’s a gorgeous building with an arcade loggia at the front and a lovely atrium that is used for concerts in the summer. The palace houses the Cultural and Historical Museum, which has a collection of furniture and paintings. On the ground floor, exhibits include the original bronze jacquemarts that used to strike the bell in Luza Square.
Dubrovnik Cathedral is a fairly plain Baroque building. The original church on the site was destroyed in the 1667 earthquake and replaced with the current one. Inside are some impressive Italian paintings, including Titian’s polyptych The Assumption behind the main altar. Just south of the cathedral is the Pustijerna quarter, one of the city’s oldest. Its medieval houses and narrow lanes are perfect for escaping the crowds.
Ploce Gate is the main entrance to the walled city on the eastern side. Just inside the walls is Bistro Revelin, a good spot for a drink or meal with good views of the old port.
The Jesuit Stairs is an iconic staircase that connects Gundulić Square with the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius at the top. The staircase is an impressive sight that has become an even more popular photo spot since being featured in Game of Thrones. We’re not fans of the show, but joined in with the fun anyway!
Where to find green space in Dubrovnik
A great place to enjoy green space is Lokrum Island which is so close to Dubrovnik we could see it from our apartment. It’s densely wooded and much quieter than the city. Perfect for a walk, lunch and a swim in the Dead Sea salt lake. There’s a former Benedictine monastery with walled gardens and Restaurant Rajski Vrt where we had lunch. And there’s a botanical garden with huge cacti.
Where to eat and drink in Dubrovnik
There are lots of places to eat and drink in Dubrovnik, but we found that many restaurant menus were very pricey. Good places I’d recommend include Gradska Kavana (town cafe), which has a terrace opposite St Blaise’s Church where you can sit and watch the visitors milling around below. Or at the back of the cafe is a restaurant and bar with a covered terrace overlooking the port, the perfect spot for breakfast on a rainy day.
We also ate at Dubravka 1836, which is next to Pile Gate with an outdoor terrace overlooking the sea. Nearby is Lokanda Peskarija, which also has outdoor seating and delicious fresh fish, while Rudjer is another great restaurant set in a lovely garden courtyard. On our last night, we had a fab meal and cocktails at Konoba Dalmatino on Prijeko, a road that runs parallel to the Stradun at the top of the steps leading from it.
For something a bit different, I’d recommend Azur, where we had a really good Croatian-Asian fusion lunch. We also had a great wine and cheese lunch at D’Vino, Dubrovnik’s oldest wine bar, where they also do wine flight tastings. Nearby, The Bar is a good indoor cocktail spot, while Cele Lounge and Cafe Bar Orlando are excellent places for al fresco drinks on the Stradun, which looks pretty magical when lit up at night.
As you can probably tell, my friends and I thoroughly enjoyed our trip and would wholeheartedly recommend Dubrovnik as a place to visit. It exceeded expectations for all of us, which isn’t something we often say!
For more posts about my road trip around Croatia and Bosnia, visit the Europe section of my blog.