On 6 August 1945, the Japanese city of Hiroshima was devastated by an atomic bomb. The city was rebuilt and has since served as a memorial to what was lost. But its commitment to promoting peace means it’s also a place of hope. And it’s a cosmopolitan city where you can have a lot of fun. Here’s how I spent two great days in Hiroshima.
Visiting the hypocentre of the blast
Hiroshima’s most famous sight is the Atomic Bomb Dome, all that remains of what was once a grand hall used for exhibitions. It was the hypocentre of the bomb blast and one of the very few buildings that stayed standing in the 3km area that was obliterated. Rubble is still scattered around the dome’s steel and concrete shell. It’s a truly eerie sight.
Exploring the Peace Memorial Park
Close to the dome, Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park is a leafy, tranquil spot with rivers on either side and memorials to the bomb’s victims. The Pond of Peace leads to the Memorial Cenotaph, a granite and stone arch curving above a stone coffin that holds the names of all victims. Framed through it is the Flame of Peace which was lit in 1964 and won’t be put out until the last nuclear weapon has been destroyed.
Also in the park is the Children’s Peace Monument statue of a young girl standing on an elongated dome, holding an origami crane. Surrounding the monument are displays of paper cranes made by children. The crane is a symbol of health and longevity. So, when 12-year-old Sasaki Sadako became ill with leukaemia 10 years after the blast, she started folding paper cranes, hoping that if she made 1,000, she would survive. Unfortunately, she died, but her classmates continued making the cranes. It’s a stark reminder that the radiation affected people in Hiroshima long after the initial blast.
That’s illustrated further in the excellent Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The museum is spread across two large buildings at the southern end of the park and while it’s inevitably an upsetting visit, it’s an essential one. There are images from before and after the blast, as well as items that were salvaged, including a child’s melted lunchbox. The displays also explained why Hiroshima was the target of the atomic bomb dropped by the Americans and just how destructive nuclear weapons are.
Getting a bird’s-eye view from Orizuru Tower
Close to the Atomic Bomb Dome, you can’t miss the 13-storey Orizura Tower. Its rooftop ‘Hiroshima Hills’ viewing terrace offers a fabulous view of the dome, the park and the city. Orizuru are origami cranes, so on the floor below the terrace, you can fold one yourself. You can then release your crane into the Orizuru Wall to join the thousands of others that are filling the glass wall.
To get back to the ground level, you can walk down a slope which spans nine levels as a continuous spiralling walkway. On the walls are huge murals depicting wishes for 2045, which will be 100 years after the end of World War II. You can also try out the slide which runs from the 12th floor to the 1st. But you can get off at each floor, so it’s easy to exit if you don’t like it!
Learning to cook Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki
After exploring the city’s sights, my friend and I decided to start our evening learning how to cook okonomiyaki pancakes. We’d already eaten the dish at Chibo in Osaka but learned that the okonomiyaki in Hiroshima is different to the Kansai region. The ingredients are layered rather than mixed together and they usually include noodles. We booked a class at Okosta at the back of the Hiroshima JR Train Station. The standard class includes meat, but there are vegetarian, Muslim-friendly and Gluten-free options. It was great fun and good value too, as we ate what we cooked and the drinks were inexpensive. Afterwards, we popped into the Ekie shopping centre in the station, which is a good place to pick up nice wine and takeaway food and has lots of eateries.
Taking a day trip to Miyajima
You could see the main sights of Hiroshima in a one-night stay, but an extra night means you can also visit Miyajima. This small island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, best known for the vermilion coloured torii (shrine gate) of Itsukushima-jinja, which appears to float on the water at high tide.
It’s easy to get to Miyajima from Hiroshima as there are boat, train and tram options that go to the Miyajimaguchi ferry port, where there are frequent crossings. Once on the other side, you’ll soon spot the deer that roam free – and are prone to stealing your lunch, as we discovered when trying to eat a sandwich sitting on the seafront! We picked those up at Katsutani-pan bakery, but there are also lots of restaurants and cafes in Miyajima. In the main shopping street just around the corner from the bakery, we even found a place selling one of our favourite Japanese tipples, sochu and soda, on tap. Perfect for washing down the sandwiches!
Sites to see on Miyajima include the Itsukushima-jinja shrine, which is a long building facing the sea and its famous shrine gate. Inside, we came across a wedding with some loud and not very tuneful singing! Nearby is the Senjo-kaku pavilion with its beautiful five-storey pagoda.
Then, a little further inland and on a hill is Daisho-in, Miyajima’s oldest Buddhist temple that’s in a lovely setting amongst trees and other greenery. It has a variety of buildings to explore and dozens of statues.
Enjoying the Hiroshima nightlife
There are plenty of places to eat, drink and have fun in Hiroshima. It’s well known for large oysters, which are bred all year round in Hiroshima Bay. Or if you’re a fan of okonomiyaki pancakes, there’s the Okonomimura food hall which has 25 stalls selling them across three floors. Though despite the quantity, we struggled to find a veggie option! But we had more success at nearby New York, New York, which is a great restaurant if you fancy some good Western food, wine and cocktails.
New York New York was only 10 minutes walk from our hotel, the Chisun, which was fine but not the best we’ve stayed in. However, the location is great as, in addition to being handy for nightlife, it’s right on the tram line that goes in one direction to the train station and in the other towards the Peace Memorial Park and the ferry port for Miyajima. So, checking out hotels on that street will put you in a great position to explore Hiroshima and enjoy your visit as much as I did.
For more posts about my trip, check out the Japan section of my blog.