Kyoto was undoubtedly my main reason for visiting the Kansai region of Japan and it didn’t disappoint. There is a huge amount to see and do – so much so my friend and I didn’t do everything on our list. But here are 10 Kyoto experiences we loved that you won’t want to miss.
1. Soaking up the atmosphere in historic Gion
I’d highly recommend booking a hotel in the Gion district of Kyoto. The streets are hugely atmospheric, particularly in the evening when the lanterns are lit. And at any time of day, you might just spot a geisha walking to an appointment. Though if you do, it’s important to keep a respectful distance. Restrictions on some Gion streets were introduced because tourists were pushing cameras into the faces of geisha! We stayed at the Gion Misen hotel, which is lovely and in a great location.
Just meandering around the streets of Gion is a delight, particularly around Shimbashi where you can walk along the canal and cross Tatsumi Bridge. But there are also temples in Gion. Shoren-in is one of the smaller temples in Kyoto but has a gorgeous landscape garden and fusama-e, which are painted sliding screens. Nearby, the Chion-in is the HQ of the Jodo sect, Japan’s largest school of Buddhism. It’s much grander with large gardens, courtyards and temple buildings wrapped with colourful pelmets.
2. Watching Miyako Odori, the spring dance of the Gion geisha
The Miyako Odori spring dance was established in 1872 when the first performance was held as part of the Kyoto Exposition. Since then, it has been a seasonal spring tradition that shouldn’t be missed if you are in Kyoto in April. The stunning geisha performance runs for about an hour and progresses through eight scenes that showcase the changing seasons from spring to the following spring. Each scene incorporates famous historical sites and classical literature from across Japan. On either side of the stage are geisha musicians and singers who tell the stories.
We bought the English audio guide, which was brilliant as it explained what you were watching. We also booked the tea ceremony, which takes place before the show and is served by some of the geisha and maiko, who are apprentice geisha. Miyako Odori is very popular with both Japanese visitors and tourists, so it’s essential to book tickets well in advance. It was undoubtedly the highlight of our stay in Kyoto.
3. Hiking through the Fushimi-Inari-taisha shrine gates
Another highlight for us was visiting Fushimi-Inari-taisha. This shrine complex is where 4km of paths wind through the forest framed by more than 10,000 tori (shrine gates) all painted in the distinctive vermillion colour we became so familiar with in Japan. It really is an extraordinary sight. Along the way, there are lots of small shrines and miniature tori, as well as stone foxes, which are believed to be messengers of Inari, the god of rice. It can get busy, so we went first thing in the morning, though a friend also recommended an early evening visit to avoid the crowds.
4. Taking in the Kyoto views from Kiyomizu-dera
Kiyomizu-dera is one of Kyoto’s most popular temples. You’ll certainly encounter lots of people and plenty of busy shops on Kiyomizu-zaka, the street leading up to it. But it’s an unusual and enjoyable place to visit as it’s perched on a hill overlooking the city. The temple’s Hondo (Main Hall) has a huge veranda that is suspended over the wooden valley below and has far-reaching views of Kyoto. We also found a quieter way to walk back was along Chawan-zaka, a street which runs parallel to Kiyomizu-zaka.
5. Snacking at Nishiki Market, aka Kyoto’s kitchen
Nishiki Market is another must-do in Kyoto and a great place to try a host of different foods. Its nickname was originally Kyoto’s kitchen when the covered arcade was a place for well-to-do residents and upscale restaurateurs to do their shopping. More recently, it’s evolved into more of a tourist attraction. So as well as the traditional food stalls, there are shops selling chopsticks and souvenir sweets. There are also areas with tables so you can stop for a drink and savour your purchases.
6. Being awed by Nijo-jo, the Shogun’s fortress
Nijo-jo castle was built in 1603 as the residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu and it was quite different to the Japanese castles we’d seen in Osaka and Himeji. The Shogun wanted to show his power and prestige so the outside is impressive and ostentatious starting with the grand Kara-mon entrance gate. It’s also much more opulent inside, with lavish screen paintings, gilded screens and carvings. Ieyasu also made sure he would be safe from intruders by installing nightingale floors which sing (squeak) when you walk on them. From the top, you can see the huge moat before going outside to walk through the Ninomaru Garden.
7. Bowing to the deer on a day trip to Nara
A day trip to Nara City, Japan’s first permanent capital, is a brilliant addition to a stay in Kyoto. It’s easy to get to by train – we took a Keihan Mainline train from Gion’s Sanjo station to Tambabashi, where helpful staff on the Kintetsu platform ensured we had the right ticket. As soon as you exit at Kintetsu-Nara Station, you’re introduced to one of its main attractions, the sacred silka deer that roam free. They are mainly in Nara Park, but there are quite a few meandering on the pavements too. The park is home to around 1,200 of the deer, which are so tame they bow in return for shika-sembei – deer crackers that are for sale from vendors in the park. My friend and I thought the whole bowing thing sounded a bit nuts, but we were soon joining in and bowing back to the deer!
Apart from the deer, there is plenty to see in Nara, including a huge temple gate which leads to the Todai-ji. This is a Bhudda complex that includes the Diabutsu-den, or Hall of the Great Buddha, which is one of the world’s largest wooden buildings. Unsurprisingly, given the name, it is home to Diabutsu, one of the world’s largest bronze Buddha statues. Behind it is a pillar with a 50cm hole through the base. If you can crawl through it you are assured of enlightenment. We enjoyed watching people attempt it (not always successfully) but decided against trying it ourselves!
There’s plenty more to explore in Nara Park including pagodas, halls and its most important shrine, Kasuga-tasha. Close to here is where we finally found something we’d been searching for the whole time we’d been in Japan – vegetarian noodles! Most noodle broth in restaurants is made with meat, but Mizuya Chaya had a veggie udon noodle option. It’s a small place with a thatched roof that’s at the bottom of some steps leading down towards Kasuga-tasha. After lunch, you can explore the shrine, which is known for its lanterns – stone ones that lead to it and hundreds of bronze ones dangling inside.
8. Meandering along Pontocho alley
Back in Kyoto, narrow Pontocho alley runs parallel to Gion on the opposite side of the river between the Sanjo and Shijo bridges. It’s lined with wooden teahouses, restaurants and bars, though there are many doors you can’t go through – reserved for private performances by the talented geisha. It’s very atmospheric at night when lanterns light the way. On the river side, the bars and restaurants have terraces that make a pretty sight when you walk back along the riverbank in Gion.
9. Checking out Kyoto’s cocktail bars
Talking of which we were surprised at how many good cocktail bars we found in Kyoto. Our favourite, Alphabet Avenue was a tiny quirky place up some stairs on Pontocho Alley. There are lots of bars on higher levels, so you need to be adventurous and go up even if it looks unlikely a bar would be up there! Alphabet has great views of the river and excellent cocktails. Another top spot is Rocking Chair which was close to where we spent our first night in Kyoto. And it does indeed have rocking chairs. We also liked the rooftop bar Ace Cafe and Atlantis Bar in Pontocho, while the fanciest cocktail bar we visited was Gion Finlandia Bar. The cocktails were good but it was a tad formal for our taste!
10. Trying a variety of Kyoto cuisine
There are many options for eating out in Kyoto, both international and Japanese. Sometimes all you want is a pizza and for that I’d recommend Pizzeria de Naghino. But for traditional izakaya dining, you can’t beat Gion Yuki. We had to queue outside for a little while and the female manager was a bit lacking in service skills, but it was worth it for the great food and atmosphere. We tried deep fried veg, sashimi, rolled omelette and more! We also had excellent food at the sushi conveyor restaurant Daiki-suisan which is close to Nishiki market.
It’s also worth mentioning that if you’re looking for a ryokan experience, I’d recommend Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura Urushitei. I said earlier that we spent our first night in Kyoto in a different location. That was because we changed our itinerary and the Gion Misen was full. So we decided to book the Kyomachiya Ryokan, where the service was great and the ‘beds’ were much more comfortable than our similar experience at a temple in Koyasan. Saying that we were very happy that we booked a room with Western beds at the Gion Misen!
So, that’s my recommendations for experiences not to miss in Kyoto, but as I said, we didn’t have enough time for everything. Partly because there’s a lot to see and partly because we had quite a lot of rain. So, be prepared for your best-laid plans to be scuppered! But we have no problem with planning another trip to fabulous Kyoto in the future, as it definitely merits a return visit.
For more posts about my trip, visit the Japan section of my bog.