Warsaw: why Poland’s capital should be your next city break

Warsaw is a pretty incredible city. Much of it was reduced to ashes in World War II, yet you wouldn’t know it. The old town has been rebuilt with extraordinary attention to detail as has the Royal Castle. And of course, its history hasn’t been forgotten and is preserved in some excellent museums.

Alongside this are contemporary buildings, beautiful green spaces and excellent eating and drinking options. Here’s how Poland’s resilient and thriving capital can make a fabulous city break.

Start with a walk along Warsaw’s Royal Way

Krakowskie Przedmieście is a 1km long promenade that was originally the start of a royal route that led to the King of Poland’s summer residence. The tree-lined boulevard is littered with monuments and landmarks. It’s also restricted to pedestrians, bicycles, buses, and taxis, so it’s a great place for a walk to admire and pop into a variety of buildings. That includes the lovely Roman Catholic Church of the Visitants and some of Warsaw University’s impressive faculties.

Visit the remarkable Royal Castle

The reconstruction of the royal castle that was destroyed by the Nazis is quite remarkable. The castle started life in the 14th century and became one of Europe’s most beautiful royal palaces. Its interiors were restored to how they were in its 17th- and 18th-century heyday, and there are many rooms to explore. The Great Assembly Hall is filled with golden columns, while the National Hall is hung with six paintings of Polish history. The 22 paintings in the Canaletto Room were used as a reference for the reconstruction of the many historic buildings in Warsaw. Outside, the Castle Square provides a glimpse at how other buildings were reconstructed.

Marvel at the UNESCO-listed Old Town Square

Close to the castle is Old Town Square, which is where you can really see the scale of what was achieved after World War II. Practically every building was rebuilt after being reduced to rubble, and yet it is now on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. At the centre of the square is a statue of the city’s symbol, Syrenka, a badass mermaid brandishing a sword.

The square is ringed by cafes and restaurants, so it’s a great place to stop for lunch. My friend and I went to Bazyliszek, which has lots of tables outside. After lunch, you can leave the square along ul. Celna to find a terrace overlooking the Vistula River. The riverbank is another good spot for a walk or a drink on one of the cafe boats that are moored up.

See how the city was rebuilt at a great small museum

Close to the terrace, we came across the Monument Interpretation Centre, which is part of the Museum of Warsaw. In all honesty, I don’t tend to spend a lot of time inside museums when I’m travelling. But this small place offers an incredible insight into what was involved in rebuilding Warsaw’s Old Town after the war.

Walk the city walls to the Little Insurgent Monument

After the visit, you can continue to walk along ul. Brzozowa to the remaining city walls that still partly encircle the Old Town. Following the walls around, you’ll come to the Little Insurgent Monument, which commemorates the child soldiers who fought and died during the Warsaw Rising.

Pay your respects to the heroes of the Warsaw Rising

By August 1944, the Polish people were well and truly sick of the German occupation. The resistance hoped to establish command of their capital city and initiated what became known as the Warsaw Rising. They successfully took over some parts of the city by creating large barricades from ripped-up paving slabs and using the sewers to communicate underground. But the hoped-for support from the Allies and Soviets didn’t arrive despite the Red Army being camped just outside the city. Stalin had ordered them not to get involved.

As a result, the uprising lasted just 63 days before the resistance surrendered. The Monument to the people who lost their lives in the Warsaw Rising is a must-see. The stunning bronze tableau shows fighters emerging from the shattered bricks of the ruined city, while others are shown going into the sewers. There’s also a Warsaw Rising museum in the city where you can learn more.

Swing by the incredible 3D mural in a historic courtyard

A very different look at Warsaw’s past can be found in the courtyard of the Jabłkowski Brothers’ House at 21 Chmielna Street. The courtyard was formerly part of one of the company’s department stores, the first to open in Warsaw. The incredible 3D mural by Piotr Glegoła incorporates real buildings and features a red, historic tram carriage which seems to be floating far above the courtyard floor. The tram is being held up by a zeppelin-shaped balloon, while another hot air balloon holds up a woman on a bicycle. My friend and I were staying at the Apple Inn, which has its entrance in the courtyard. So it was the amazing sight we saw first thing every morning and last thing at night.

See the city from the top of the Palace of Culture and Science

The best place for views of the modern-day city is the 30th-floor observation deck of the Palace of Culture and Science. The skyscraper was a ‘Gift of friendship’ from the Soviet Union and is impossible to miss on Warsaw’s skyline. It reminded us of New York’s Empire State Building, especially when lit up at night. As well as admiring the views from the top, you can see the grand interior architecture on a guided tour. Or you can use its many facilities, including a cinema, science museums, theatres and a tourist information office.

Explore the green space above the University library

If you visit between April and October, then a visit to Warsaw University Library’s rooftop garden is a great experience. The garden goes up and over the library and has walkways, bridges and pergolas. There are even skylights where you can look down onto the students working in the library below. Plus, there are great views of the city skyline and the Vistula River.

Spend a sunny afternoon in Warsaw’s royal park

For a bigger green space, you can head to Łazienki Park, which was commissioned by Poland’s last king in the 18th century. It covers a large area and includes a variety of gorgeous gardens. At its centre is the neoclassical Palace on the Isle, and there’s also an Old Orangery and the beautiful White Pavilion.

Another highlight in the park is the Art Nouveau Fryderyk Chopin Monument. The original was blown up by the Germans in 1940, but its mould survived the occupation, so a copy was made. From mid-May to September, free Chopin piano concerts are held here on Sundays at 4:00pm. Except when the lawn is being restored, as we discovered when we visited in June! The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in the city also holds concerts, but it was closed for refurbishment until 2027. Evidently an experience we’ll need to go back for!

Enjoy great local and international food options

Warsaw isn’t short of places to eat, both traditional and international. As we’d been in Poland for over a week, we went for a mix of both. Mimosa is a great spot for pizzas and other Italian fare, and The Mexican does exactly what it says on the tin. For a special Polish dinner, I’d recommend Stara Kamienica. The food was excellent, and there was a live musician. Vincent’s under our hotel was also a great spot for breakfast or lunch and has other branches in the city.

Check out cool cocktail bars and spritz spots

Any regular readers of my blog will know I like a cocktail, and Loreta is a great rooftop bar in the Puro Hotel. On Saturday night there was a very good DJ, and if there isn’t space on the outside terrace, you can sit inside, and the team will add you to a list to get an outside table when one is free. My friend and I never drink the same cocktail, but the Loreta 54 appealed because the spirit was Flor de Caña rum, which we’d drunk on a memorable trip to Nicaragua. It also included miso, banana and cacao and came with a side of sour apple caviar. We both thought it looked and tasted delicious! Needless to say, they serve our favourite classics too, and the views are great.

Another cool and quirky cocktail bar is El Koktel, while Niewinność Wine Bar is a great choice if you enjoy trying different wines. There are also plenty of good spots for a Spritz drink, including Vincent’s, which I mentioned earlier. They were even selling them to take away, so you can spritz and shop!

So those are just some of the ways you can spend your time in Warsaw and why I think it’s an excellent (and probably quite underrated) choice for a city break.

To read more about my trip to Poland and other European destinations, visit the Europe section of my blog.